The eight months of summer I've enjoyed between South America and the United States came to a screeching halt yesterday. All the stress and anxiety of "being back in school" (even though I'm not taking classes, I feel the weight of academic work -- i.e., my dissertation -- pressing down on me, flooding my conscience) came to a head in a situation that left me wondering, How'd things go so sour so quickly? The signature line of G.O.B. (from my latest TV obsession, Arrested Development) rang all too true for me: "I've made a huge mistake."
Whether or not yesterday's situation could have been avoided, one thing is clear: I feel old habits creeping up on me. Or, more precisely, I'm losing touch with the self I became while living abroad and traveling around in South America. Which is why I'm taking this opportunity to remind myself of the great joy I experienced there and to imagine how I might continue to live a happy, fulfilling life based on friendship and openness.
What better way to bring this experience back to the fore than to present scenes from a bar in Lima? The night was May 11, and I joined Jorge, Tammy, Emily, Angela, and others on a wild bar-hopping trip around Barranco. Most of these photos were taken at Mochileros, a trendy bar housed in a quaint colonial-type building just off the main square. Jorge and Tammy knew the owner of Mochileros, which meant that we got a free drink or three thrown into the mix. All photos are courtesy of Emily Jump and her awesome travel blog survey of the universe.
Things got started at Juanito's, where Barranco's most recognizable roaming guitarist serenaded Angela with a little ditty. I forget the specific lyrics of his riff on a famous love song, but I do remember Jorge's chorus: "Por atras."
Jorge: writer, philosopher, drunk.
Don't worry, folks: Angela and Emily are only playing innocent.
Longtime compañeros: Jorge and Tammy doin' the dance once more.
I may have wished for another bottle of Cristal.
Jorge to himself: "Emily's got issues."
Sandra thinking, What have I done to deserve this?
An unforgettable tableau: Kinohi singing, Emily growling, and Jorge wondering, Who the fuck are these people?
Not a camera effect: by the end of the night, we were all seeing blurry. Only the next shot of pisco showed up clearly.
Does anyone have more information on the following news item? I'm not familiar with the restaurant in question. I'm also interested in finding out whether the local district council is responsible for charging this restaurant with civil rights violations. This is the same district, remember, whose conservative evangelical mayor closed Down Town, a popular gay bar, just over a year ago -- a move widely seen as being a politically motivated attack on homosexuality.
LIMA, Peru (Dan Collyns, BBC) -- A popular restaurant in Lima has been temporarily closed down after several complaints that people with darker skin were refused entry.
The Café del Mar in Miraflores, a wealthy district of the Peruvian capital, is the first restaurant to be shut for alleged discrimination.
It will be closed for 60 days and was fined about $70,000 (£35,000).
Campaigners hope this is a first step in tackling Peru's deep divisions along racial and economic lines.
Officials from Peru's consumer protection agency and the municipality of Miraflores sealed the doors and placed signs on the entrances.
'Symbolic sanction'
For many human rights campaigners the closure is an important step in combating Peru's racial and economic discrimination.
Wilfredo Ardito is one of them: "This is a symbolic sanction. It is the first time happily that this practice in this terrible act of racial selection of the customer has been closed and we consider that this is the first step."
"Racism is something permanent in our society but it's terrible that even a place open to the public is practising this kind of situation," he said.
The Peruvian government only began imposing fines for discrimination in 2004 but a bill which passed through Congress some months ago reinforces existing legislation with jail sentences for those convicted of racial discrimination.
For centuries the white elite in Peru has held onto wealth and power despite the majority of the population being of indigenous or mixed descent.
But now there is more social mobility in Peruvian society and it seems the government of President Alan Garcia realises that Peru's social and economic inequality is hindering its development.
London, summer 2005: DJ Eric Prydz's "Call on Me" takes Europe by storm and is the dance hit of the summer. Sampling Steve Winwood's 1987 song "Valerie," the song is a foot-thumping blend of catchy beats and memorable lyrical crescendos: "Call on meeeee... Call on me! Call on meeeee... Call on me! Call on meeeee... I'm the same boy I used to be."
The music video for "Call on Me" is equally memorable: an aerobics class workout becomes the site for a hot-and-heavy flirtation between the instructor and the lone male in the room. Curiously, while the girls around him get sweaty and toss their hair, the male remains sweat-free and smiles in a sort of goofy, dazed way. At any rate, the video is probably best known for the pelvic-thrust dance move that the class performs in unison after the first crescendo. The move goes a little something like this: spread your legs apart, keeping them parallel to each other; bend your knees and place your hands on your thighs; and now in this semi-sumo-squatting position, THRUST your hips to the beat of the song. It's that simple!
Though the unremixed version of "Call on Me" runs a little less than three minutes, it becomes an immediate dance sensation throughout Europe and the pelvic thrust becomes a rather popular form of bodily expression in discos for the entire summer of 2005.
Lima, summer (or the northern hemisphere's spring) 2007: At the popular club La Cede in Miraflores, the lone gay-friendly discoteca in Lima (the "gay club" in Miraflores, Downtown, was recently shut down by the district's conservative, evangelical mayor), I grow accustomed to watching music videos of songs the DJ plays during his set. While I'm sure this fusion of song and video has become the norm in dance clubs the world over, I really only experience it for the first time at La Cede. (It's been five years since I was last in Europe.)
Now although La Cede is mind-bogglingly crowded every time I go in there, I generally enjoy its atmosphere, its diverse crowd, and the music/videos the DJ plays -- a sometimes jarring but always fun blend of salsa, reggaeton, and '80s pop. As far as I can tell, the two constants in the DJ's playlist are: "Gasolina" and Erasure's "A Little Respect." And the best part is that the mostly Peruvian crowd knows all the lyrics to both songs. "Oh baby pleeeeease / give a little respect / to-hoo-ooo meeeee!"
Chapel Hill, North Carolina, summer 2007: It's my first sojourn to Chapel Hill, a neighbor city to Durham, since my return to the States. In fact, it's probably my first trip to the Chapel Hill bar scene in over a year. Five of us pack into my friend Bea's two-door, and having to ride on the "hump" in the back seat reminds me a bit of "making do" with transportation in Lima.
Chapel Hill is pretty dead this Thursday night -- perhaps it's post-Memorial Day fatigue. After a quiet spell at the bar Jack Sprat, we go to the dance club The Library, an old favorite of mine from three years ago. Bea, Ignacio, and Darian don't like the scene there and leave within fifteen minutes. Alvaro and I, though, are digging the fact that at least some people are dancing here and so stick around a while longer for a drink.
After a forgettable song by Eminem, the DJ puts on "Call on Me" and those funky aerobics girls appear on the huge TV screen above the dance floor. The students on the dance floor scream in unison -- the song has become a huge dance hit on the college circuit. (Perhaps there's a musical progression/regression to be examined here: from European discos to the U.S. college party scene.)
Without any prompting, girls in their short skirts and boys in their khaki shorts and polo shirts "assume the position": it's the preppy version of the dance. After that first deliciously frenetic crescendo, twenty college kids thrust their pelvises in an orgy of glittery make-up and popped collars.
Alvaro and I are watching the dance floor, and the music video, from a booth ten feet away. At first I make a vague attempt to laugh off the scene in front of us. But then I feel a weird sensation. My feet start tapping the bar stool I'm sitting on. My hand begins to rap the countertop in sync with the song's beat. A smile crosses my face. I love this song!!
But... but then I feel paralyzed. I'm bumping along in my seat, yet I can't muster up the courage to just go to the dance floor and move, let my body go. To be fair, I don't a friend to dance with, and the dance floor is pretty empty overall. Still, I can't help but feel that if this had been Lima, I would have wasted no time in getting my pelvic thrust on.
I mention something to Alvaro about the difference in social relations in bars and clubs between Latin America and the States. We agree that things are less socially awkward and uptight in Latin America, where making eyes at a girl can in fact be a seductive thing and dancing with a guy doesn't mean you're "his" or "with him." Here in Chapel Hill you could sense something almost completely different: friends surely had a great time with each other, but there was very little opportunity for strangers to meet, to dance, to blush, to sing.
The song ends with my not having moved an inch from my seat.
I remember the several nights of dancing I enjoyed at La Cede. I remember joining the tourists, locals, expats, and guides who were dancing the night away at a discoteca in Arequipa.
I finish my beer and wonder how long it will be before I dance like that again.
A pop-reggaeton song grabbed me from the first day I arrived in Lima. I had heard the song in sundry ambient settings: usually while in a taxi or combi,or while eating at a menú restaurant. The song's swaying beats and catchy lyrics penetrated my subconscious in no time, and I found myself humming its choral tune while cooking, shaving, and e-mailing.
None of my friends in Lima knew who actually sang the song. In truth, I was somewhat embarrassed to admit loving it, because the song seemed to be this summer's bubblegum pop hit in Peru. I was reluctant to reveal to new friends my secret admiration for what probably amounted to the Peruvian version of Justin Timberlake (the singer really did sound like early JT in Spanish -- their voices share a cuddly, high-pitched boyishness).
Another stumbling block to my figuring out who sang the song was that I barely understood the lyrics in Spanish. It wasn't just that I couldn't translate the lyrics into English; I also couldn't discern the exact words being sung. And so whenever I mustered up the courage to ask someone if she knew who sang this mysterious but wildly popular song, I could only say, "You know, the one that goes, 'Duh-duh-dah-duh-duh-dah-duuuhuhuh!'" Needless to say, that tactic didn't get me very far.
Well, finally, in mid-May, Leigh Campoamor e-mailed me an exciting message: from the empleada next door, she learned that the song in question was called "No puedo volverte a ver" and that it was sung by the Cumbia Kings. I was elated. I thought I had found the Holy Grail of sappy reggaeton. I immediately went to Google to find a site where I could listen to the song.
Unfortunately, my search was in vain. Even with quotation marks around the song's title, I found only a handful of sites that mentioned the exact phrase "No puedo volverte a ver." And the group the Kumbia Kings (with a "k," not a "c") didn't seem to have such a song in their repertoire. I was so disappointed. How could such a popular song elude me for so long?
On the penultimate night of my stay in Lima, I met a group of Peruvian students through my friend Rosana (whom I had met at a French expat birthday party about a month earlier). We went out for drinks and dancing in Jesus Maria, a distinctly non-touristy district in Lima. I was quite pleased to be going someplace with which I had very little familiarity; it was my last great adventure, outside of Miraflores, in Lima.
Anyway, at some point in the evening I thought I'd ask one of Rosana's friends if he knew the song I was dying to get information about. In broken Spanish, I told him I was going to hum a few lines from the song's chorus. I then did my old shtick of singing, "Duh-duh-dah-duh-duh-dah-duuuhuhuh!" Rosana's friend paused for a moment, and then said those magical words: he knew exactly which song I was talking about. He told me the song's title, and I committed it to memory.
Well, almost... The next day I e-mailed Leigh excitedly and said, "One of the Peruvian guys I met last night told me the song I desperately want to hear has the main lyric, 'Loco volver que a ver,' or perhaps 'Loco por volver aver.' At any rate, the lyric basically says, 'I'm crazy to see you again.'"
I knew my version of the lyrics weren't exactly correct, as further Google searches didn't turn anything up of significance. But Leigh's response to my message struck gold: "i guess it'd be 'loco por volverte a ver.' that makes sense grammatically. hope you can find it!"
Sure enough, the song I had spent four maddening months looking for turned out to be: Chili Fernandez's "Loco por volverte a ver." Not only that, but the Kumbia Kings did in fact have their own version of the song -- I'm just not sure whether they or Chili recorded it first. At any rate, my quest was over, my Google search complete, and I had located enough pirated YouTube "music videos" of Chili's version (my preferred version) to make me happy for a long time to come.
Here's an example of one such music video posted online. Note the use of manga images here; the Japanese animated art is all the rage in Peru these days.
Isn't that awesomely sappy... yet true?
Now that I'm back in the States, listening to it constantly on a repeated loop, I've realized something very interesting about the lyrics (see below) of this song. While the song's title is "Loco por volverte a ver" -- "dying to see you again" (thanks, Justin) -- its main lyric actually reads, "Ya no estoy loco por volverte a ver," or "I'm already not dying to see you again." And so although Chili slurs the "ya no estoy" in singing the lyric, and although the song as a whole is resolutely upbeat in tone and rhythm, this is all about heartbreak, not falling in love. "Don't think the world revolves around you," Chili sings, just before dropping the line, "I'm already over you" -- my paraphrase of "ya no estoy loco por volverte a ver."
Knowing this now -- that my four-month-long search for a starry-eyed, romantic ditty has instead revealed a bittersweet riposte to an ex-lover -- makes me appreciate "Loco por volverte a ver" even more, and it makes me think back on the own love I lost in Lima.
“Loco por volverte a ver” de Chili Fernandez (from the Musicstar X website)
Que te llamo, que no olvido y no puedo estar sin ti… que me estoy volviendo loco desde que no estas aqué Que yo nunca encontraré mis deseos de vivir Y tu piensas que yo muero pues ya ves que no es así
Rompí tus fotos cuando te marchaste de aquí quemé tus cartas y no volví a pensar en ti y me reía yo escuchando a tus amigos decir que a todo el mundo le estás preguntando por mi. Pasé las noches enteras bailando sin ti ya no me duele tanto que tu no estés aquí ya no me importa lo que pienses de mi no creas que el mundo no gira sin ti
Coro:** Ya no estoy loco por volverte a ver ya no paso por tu casa ya no llamo para ver si acaso estas ahí Ya no estoy loco por volverte a ver y me dicen mis amigos que he cambiado, que yo estoy mejor sin ti…
Y el teléfono no vuelve a tener su ring ring y mis amigas que siempre me querían dar su pum pum, mami mami, pum pum, mami mami Ya no hace falta llamarte, ya me convencí que ya no duele tanto que tu no estés aquí Ya no me importa lo que pienses de mi no creas que el mundo no gira sin ti.
Coro:** Ya no estoy loco por volverte a ver ya no paso por tu casa ya no llamo para ver si acaso estas ahí Ya no estoy loco por volverte a ver y me dicen mis amigos que he cambiado, que yo estoy mejor sin ti…
YA NO PASO LAS NOCHES PENSANDO QUE ERA YO EL QUE TE ESTABA FALLANDO YA NO TENGO QUE ESTAR ESPERANDO PORQUE EL TELEFONO POR MI ESTA SONANDO
Y AUNQUE TE SIGO, YA ME HAS VISTO Y YA ME CONVENCÍ QUE NO PODÍA ESTAR CONTIGO, NO ERAS PARA MÍ, Y SI TU SIGUES CONVENCIDA QUE LLORO POR TI EL RITMO, EL DELIRIUM CANTA PARA TI
Pasé las noches enteras bailando sin ti ya no me duele tanto que tu no estes aqui y ya no me importa lo que pienses de mi no creas que el mundo no gira sin ti
Coro:** Ya no estoy loco por volverte a ver ya no paso por tu casa ya no llamo para ver si acaso estas ahí Ya no estoy loco por volverte a ver y me dicen mis amigos que he cambiado, que yo estoy mejor sin ti…
I left Lima with a heavy heart Monday night. Anyone there can tell you I wasn't ready to leave -- I thought of traveling more with my friend Emily, spending more time with my Peruvian friends, eating more amazingly good and cheap chifa lunches... In the end, though, there were too many things that demanded my immediate attention in the States, not least removing personal possessions (and rare research materials) from my carrel before Duke's library closes down on June 1 for major renovations. And so I didn't end up extending my stay in Lima; I left my apartment and the city with tears in my eyes.
The flight from Lima to Houston went without a hitch. I sat next to a girl who turned out to be a Las Vegas socialite who had gone on a week-long vacation to Peru with her boyfriend's mother. It was the closest I had come to having a conversation with a Paris Hilton-type scenester. Contrary to stereotype, though, I was glad to hear she had had a wonderful time in Cusco, leaving her cell phone and e-mail behind, meeting interesting people from around the world, and only wearing her jeans and sneakers out to the local discotecas. I don't know whether she'd seek out another travel opportunity like this one in the future (she clearly enjoyed showing me pictures of her and her friends partying in Vegas), but it was nice to know she at least had this experience and will probably never forget it, wherever life may take her.
I touched down in Houston the next morning around 6. After going through immigration, re-checking my luggage, and making my way to another terminal, I was anxious to board the plane to Atlanta for the middle-leg of my trip. From there I still had to take a flight to Raleigh-Durham (RDU) in the late morning. But bad weather in Houston -- what seemed to be a severe thunderstorm, though I couldn't tell if what I was seeing was lightning or the fluorescent lighting at the gate flashing on and off -- delayed my flight by two hours, which meant that I was going to miss my connecting flight in Atlanta. Fortunately (I thought), I was rebooked on a direct flight from Houston to RDU, which was supposed to leave just an hour and a half later. Not only would I only have to take one flight, but I was supposed to get into RDU even a bit earlier than expected.
Well, one delay was followed by another, and I didn't end up leaving Houston until 3 in the afternoon. The only saving grace of that trip was that I had the whole row to myself. There I sat in the middle seat and finished reading Steve Martin's Shopgirl while listening to The Postal Service's "Such Great Heights" on my iPod.
My friend and Literature colleague Justin Izzo welcomed me back to Durham at the airport. I'm staying at his place until I can move back into my apartment on June 1. I couldn't be luckier, really, as Justin is not only a fellow world-traveler who appreciates good backpacking stories but also a rabid football fan like myself. We caught up over a nice Italian dinner at Cinelli's and, later, discoursed on the recently completed English Premiership season as we worked our way through an 18-pack of Bud Light on the balcony of his apartment.
The next day Justin earned bragging rights when his team, AC Milan, beat England's Liverpool 2-1 in the Champions League final in Athens. He got to wear his Milan jersey in public while my newly purchased Liverpool jersey had to remain in the suitcase. After the match, we decided to go to the grocery store to pick up some things for dinner.
The path from Justin's apartment to the Whole Foods supermarket in Durham is direct: simply go down Broad St. for two miles or so and you're there. We jumped into Justin's car and set off for our grocery run. Everything was fine until we reached the intersection where we were supposed to turn right to get to Whole Foods. Near the traffic light, which was green, we saw a red minivan veer over the yellow dividing line. Thinking the driver was reckless, Justin slowed down and brought his car almost to a complete stop. The red minivan kept advancing. In a split second, where everything around me seemed frozen in time, I heard Justin shout, "WHOA!!," I braced myself in the passanger seat, and the red minivan crossed the dividing line completely and hit our car head-on.
Fortunately, the minivan was not going terribly fast and Justin and I escaped injury. I was able to open my passenger door and walk over to the minivan as Justin turned off the engine and collected his things. The first thing I saw was a little girl, no more than eight years old, get out of the driver's seat and run back toward the supermarket. There was a younger girl, likely her sister, who remained in one of the van's front seats. Both girls were sobbing and screaming for their mother. It was then that I realized that THE MINIVAN HAD BEEN DRIVEN INTO US BY THE EIGHT-YEAR-OLD GIRL.
Justin and I were dumbfounded. Bystanders made sure we were OK, and one lady took the girls in her care, removing them from the scene of the accident. Soon a woman, presumably the girls' mother, ran to the minivan and half-bawled, half-wailed, "Why did you do this? Why did you do this? You hit a BMW! I don't have money for this!" We then learned that there was another child in the van, probably a baby who was hidden from view in the back seat. Bystanders calmed her down and made sure that her children were safe and free from injury. When everyone was accounted for, Justin and the woman moved their vehicles off to the side and we all awaited a policeman to assess the situation and write a report.
What we determined from eyewitness accounts and our own piecing together of events was that the woman had left her vehicle running and likely double-parked in the Whole Foods lot while she ran in to buy groceries. She had left three girls in the minivan while another one accompanied her into the store. Though she claimed to have gone in to buy only greens, a friend of the woman's later brought a shopping cart half-full with plastic grocery bags to her minivan.
The two older girls were curious and somehow managed to put the car into drive. What happened next was amazing. Realizing that the minivan was accelerating (even without their pressing on the gas pedal), the girls panicked and the oldest one started to maneuver the wheel in order to avoid hitting anyone. She managed to drive the van down an entire lane of parked vehicles, run over a concrete parking block, jump the curb leading to Broad St., steer the vehicle to the left (to avoid hitting a wall across the way), and finally, surely exhausted and frightened beyond belief, ended up just colliding with us as we approached from the opposite direction.
Knowing this story was little consolation for Justin and me, as we were flabbergasted that this woman had left her children in such dangerous circumstances to begin with. It was an accident that could've been avoided with some patience and a little common sense. The main thing, of course, was that no one had gotten hurt and that insurance would cover the cost of repairing Justin's car. It could've been so much worse for the girls had they not run into us, I suppose.
One day after the accident, Justin and I are still shellshocked from the experience. His car will be out of service for the foreseeable future, though the good news is that I bought a new used car this afternoon to replace my 1993 Mercury Topaz that died on me just two days before I left for Peru. Though it's not a model from the 2000s, my Nissan Sentra is comfortable and gas-efficient, and it has the added luxury (which I've never had in a car) of a CD player.
But all these car issues, which I've had to deal with so quickly upon my return, make me long for life back in Lima, where having a car wasn't an option and taking combis was the norm. I got on just fine, and I saved a lot of money on transportation to boot.
Some tourists like to complain that Lima's combis are uncomfortable, their schedules are erratic, their drivers are reckless, and you're not always guaranteed a seat. I've never been in an accident while on a combi, and I got used to paying only 1 nuevo sol, or roughly $.33, for a trip to almost anywhere in Lima.
On my first full day back in Durham, I got into a car accident with an eight-year-old girl driving a minivan down Broad St. My Nissan Sentra, which Justin now relies on for transportation, is a nice ride and was affordably priced; but the gas tank reads Almost Empty, and I admit to kind of forgetting how to refill a tank.
On Sunday, May 6, my friend Alonso Cardeñas invited me to go with him to el clásico, the football derby match between cross-town rivals Alianza Lima and Universitario. I had had a long night of partying on Saturday, but there was no way I'd pass up seeing my first South American football match -- and a derby to boot! I dragged myself out of bed at 2 and, luckily for me, only had to put on shabby clothes before heading out the door. Alonso warned me that football matches attract pickpockets; thus, I should wear only a shirt and jeans and bring only the money I needed for the ticket and some food. For added effect, he told me I shouldn't shave either. I guess there's nothing more intimidating in Peru than a chino who looks like Grizzly Adams. I was ready to go.
Football derbies are always special sporting events. They are the epitome of sporting passion and occupy pride of place in local and regional history. Derbies also bring out the most intense emotions and expressions of pride in fans: they are louder, and more vociferous, in their cheers, applause, and chants when their opponents also happen to be their neighbors. Buenos Aires teams Boca Juniors and River Plate are known to host the most spectacular, and sometimes violent, clashes. The Lima clásico is hardly known outside of the country, but I had no qualms. A world football fan myself, I value any and all opportunities to see a live match.
Alonso's father was kind enough to drive us to the stadium. Amazingly, he and Alonso are veterans of the 1986 (Mexico) and 1990 (Italy) World Cups. They even got to see the final of the '86 Cup between Argentina and West Germany. This was the famous 3-2 match in which Argentina's Diego Maradona helped his country win with the "Hand of God" goal -- a goal that had gone in off his hand, without the referee noticing. Clearly I was in good company.
Alonso and I got out of the car about six or seven blocks from the stadium. We immediately found ourselves in a throng of people who were making their way to see the game. It was delightful chaos. Streets were closed, police were patrolling on horse and on foot, and ticket-hawkers lined the sidewalks advertising (by shouting) their goods.
Alonso stopped at one seller and asked for tickets. We were presented with two options: cheap tickets for the open "South" section of the stadium or slightly more expensive tickets for the "West" section. At first I went for the West tickets, as I figured I'd want to watch the match with the full pitch in equal view. Alonso hesitated and said, "But this is Peru. The quality isn't very good." (That is, I didn't need to worry about seeing everything that happened on the pitch.) He then clarified his statement by saying that we'd have much more fun in the South section, where Alianza's fans, known as the "Comando Svr," sang, chanted, and beat drums throughout the match. (I later learned that the fans spell "Sur" with a "v" instead of a "u" because their fiercest rivals, Universitario, also go by the nickname "La U.") Once Alonso told me this, I knew exactly what to do. I bought myself a ticket for the South section.
We made our way to the long line of people waiting to get into the South entrance. I was probably the only non-Peruvian in the lot; this was truly a locals-only thing. Alonso and I wound our way around the block and took our place in the line. While we were waiting, I bought an Alianza Lima jersey from a vender and put it on over my shabby shirt. I was now in my true colors. It's not that Alonso is an Alianza fan and so I had to be one too; rather, Alianza has a history of being the "people's team," whereas La U was/is known to attract the more shi-shi classes in Lima. As Alonso would say, "I am a man of the people."
The line eventually started moving, albeit very slowly. I discovered then that Peruvian police don't mess around. Any line-cutters or trash-talkers were beaten with batons or policemen's bare hands. I tempered my shock when the kids who were the object of these beatings laughed at their tormenters and generally acknowledged their rascaliness. This response was, for me, an interesting lesson in Peruvian social relations, and specifically how people here deal with police and (the threat of) violence.
Once Alonso and I got in the stadium, we squeezed our way through the frenzied crowd and got seats on the top of the South section. The stadium's nickname is Matute, and it can hold up to 35,000 people. This is actually on the low-end of stadium capacity; Universitario's stadium, for example, can hold 80,000 people. At any rate, across from us, in the North section, was a huge swath of La U fans. Police surrounded their section, making sure that violence didn't erupt between rival bands of rabid supporters.
The match kicked off at 3:30, and for the first twenty minutes or so everyone was on the edge of his seat, waiting for the match's breakthrough goal. Unfortunately for Alianza, the team was playing like shit and La U controlled the game both offensively and defensively. In particular, one Renzo Benavides, a striker, seemed sluggish and out of form, as he never completed his runs in a way that showed he really wanted the ball. Fans started to give him shit, all the while calling him by his somewhat undesirable nickname, El Gordo, or fat one. (When Benavides was later substituted in the second half, he was whistled off the pitch and, rather than join his teammates on the bench, elected to go straight to the locker room.)
As the match wore on, Alonso and I grew bored, but the Comando Svr remained vibrant and upbeat. This was genuine blood-support. As the saying goes, these people bleed the colors of their team. Their efforts seemed to pay off close to the half-hour mark, when Alianza was awarded a penalty after a foul in the penalty area. La U's goal was directly in front of our section, so we got to see the action unfold before our eyes. Unfortunately, after a moment of hushed anticipation, the penalty-taker missed the goal entirely as the ball sailed wide of the net. "CONCHA SU MADRE!!" roared the crowd. We were devastated.
After halftime, the pace started to pick up again. Only La U was the one to strike first. Their defender headed in a goal from a corner (which bounced off the heads of two other La U players), made possible by some truly shambolic defending by the Alianza squad. The La U supporters rushed to the front of their section in a wave of red, a typical South American way of celebrating a goal. They then picked up their singing and urged their team to get another one.
The match was dire for the next half-hour. Alianza was desperate to get a goal, but La U's defense was rock-solid. Even the Comando Svr seemed resigned to a home loss. On the few occasions when Alianza produced a close shot on La U's goal, all one heard was a blast of "CONCHA SU MADRE!!" from the crowd -- a reflexive, primal scream decrying our bad luck.
In the 88th minute, however, completely against the run of play, an Alianza midfielder scored a fine goal from just outside the penalty box. The South section was awakened from its relative slumber and we all jumped up and down and cheered, somewhat amazed that we were able to claw our way back into the game.
But, as is so often the case with the shifting fortunes of sport, our hearts were broken not three minutes later, when La U produced a classic counter-attack and scored the winner in stoppage time. We were so taken aback (from the highest of highs to the lowest of lows) by the goal that we couldn't even muster a "concha su madre" in response. We were deflated; our fate was sealed.
After the match, Alonso and I made our way out of the stadium with the rest of the Alianza fans. We walked in a kind of daze, slightly depressed that our team had lost the derby in the second-to-last minute of play. Still, we appreciated the action -- two goals in five minutes! -- that we did see in the end, and I was glad to have experienced my first South American football match.
Later that evening, in Miraflores, a guy driving a Volkswagen passed by Alonso and me on the street. He must have seen my jersey, and so he shouted something to us, in Spanish, which I could neither hear well nor translate. He kept repeating his question, but I kept responding with a blank face. Alonso, too, couldn't tell what the driver was saying, perhaps because he was still distracted by Alianza's defeat. The Volkswagen guy drove away after a handful of these blank exchanges. Just a few seconds later Alonso said, "Oh, he was asking us, 'Who won the game?'"
For the past two months I've been lucky to be living in a beautiful, three-story apartment in Miraflores, Lima's tourist and commercial center on the coast. Located at 122 Ca. Buenos Aires, my building is just two blocks from the malecón, the scenic path that overlooks the beach, and a five-minute walk from Av. Larco, the main thoroughfare for Miraflores' hotels, restaurants, and businesses. Our street is surprisingly quiet for being centrally located in the district; it's something of a rarity in the busy, bustling chaos of the city.
I live with three roommates. Laurent is a Frenchman who works for the shirt company Lacoste. He's been living in Peru for about two years, and he's the main renter of the apartment. His Spanish is near flawless on account of his living in Barcelona and Mexico D.F. prior to Lima. Laurent's girlfriend Evelyn is Peruvian, and she somehow moved in with us midway during my stay here. At any rate, Laurent has been a good sport, putting up with my tendency to fall asleep on the living room couch after long nights of partying.
Leslie is a native of Montana and has been living here for about a year. She recently quit her job at an agency that sends Peruvian students on exchange work programs to the States. Leslie was my first friend in the apartment, and throughout my stay she's been kind enough to introduce me to her large group of expat and Peruvian friends in Lima. Leslie's heading off to the London School of Economics in the fall.
Ursula is a Dartmouth College junior, and we share a certain bond over the fact that she goes to my alma mater and is a comparative literature major, no less. Ursula's only here for two months, interning at a microfinance research institution. From what she tells me, her work experience hasn't been terribly rewarding; she travels weekly to Huaráz to observe projects that somehow never materialize. Ursula lent me her copy of Ernest Hemingway's To Have and Have Not, which I wrote about in my other blog, The Paperback Museum.
My room is on the third floor of the apartment. And because the apartment (no. 601) is located on the top floor of the building, this means I have access to a rooftop terrace, which is perfect for sunbathing, parties, and writing. Perhaps you'd like a tour?
Well, first let's walk through Ursula's room, which is the only way to get to the third floor of the apartment. This is less inconvenient than you might think, mainly because Ursula and I respect each other's space and sleep-time as much as possible. At the end of her room there's a spiral staircase that leads to my room.
This is a fun route to take to get to my quarters -- almost like entering a kid's private clubhouse. But watch your head! You need to duck to avoid hitting it on the walkway at the top of the stairs. This is especially hazardous if you happen to be tired or drunk or both, and if Ursula's already asleep and the lights are off.
Now that you've reached the top of the staircase, you'll see this when you look down
and this when you survey the room.
I keep the glass doors to the terrace open most of the time to let the slight Lima breeze (especially now that it's winter here) ventilate the room. And though it's certainly not most people's preference, I love having a lot of sunlight in my room for reading and for waking up naturally in the mornings.
Walk toward the bed and from there you can see I have a lovely sitting area opposite the terrace.
There's more light there for reading and relaxing. And to the right you can see my "media center," which consists of a non-functional stereo that the previous occupant left me, lots of pirated DVDs, some empty CD cases, and my books, lots of books. Really I prefer to listen to my iTunes on my bed.
I don't want to keep you long. Let's just go outside.
From here you can see the Miraflores cityscape to the left
and, if you look very closely, Barranco (the neighboring district) and the ocean to the right.
The terrace is, for me, the pièce de resistance of the apartment. I've several fond memories of time spent on the terrace. Most notably was Lea and Tabea's last night in South America, when, after staying out at Yakana's, dancing until 6 in the morning, we returned home, headed for the terrace, and were witness to a beautiful sunrise.
I'd be lucky to secure this room upon my return to Lima. It's not likely, though, as Laurent will find new roommates to fill our shoes, and who knows how long they'll be living here. And so in just two days' time I'll bid goodbye to my terrace and hope that my apartment back in the States will make me feel as much at home (again) as mine in Lima did.
